How To Smorgasbord like a Svensk

(by an Australian who has not a ounce of Scandinavian heritage and does not means to cause offence but merely encourage others to be more culturally experienced!) 

If you’re going to visit Sweden, then a traditional smorgasbord is a must. Not just because you can experience a wonderful aspect of Swedish culture, but because it also allows you to try many different tidbits of Scandinavian cuisine. 

My recent smorgasbord experience at Verandan restaurant at the Grand Hotel Stockholm was easily one of my favourite international food experiences ever. For 545 SEK / $82 AUD, you can try smorgasbord the traditional way. There’s nothing to stop you from being completely uncultured and treating the experience like a usual hotel buffet, but trust me when I say you’ll find the whole process much more fun if you follow the rules of engagement! 

The general ‘rules’:

  • Use many small plates with multiple trips to the smorgasbord 
  • Do not pile your plate high with food, show restraint 
  • Cold before hot, herring first 
  • Be open minded, enjoy! 

     

      

Step 1 – The herring

Start your smorgasbord experience with pickled herring, a tasting of Swedish cheese, a shot of Aquavit / vodka and a Swedish beer. In all my excitement I forgot to take the dill potatoes as well, so these featured in the second plate, BUT the herring SHOULD be accompanied by these glorious potatoes!

Also not featured here is the beautiful bread basket, with the dark aniseed scented loaf being the clear favourite. 

 

Step 2 – More fish, and eggs 

  

If you thought you were finished with fish, you have been fooled! Whether it’s hot smoked, beetroot cured, gravalax or baked salmon, char or mackerel, the next course is also a feast of fancy of the fish variety. Must come with lemon (and I highly recommend mustard dill sauce!). 

Again in my excitement I failed to see the OTHER selection of fish, so I had to do this one twice. By this stage I felt like I had eaten enough fish to classify myself as a mermaid, as I was at least 50% seafood matter by body weight. 

Step 3 – Salad and cold meats 

A selection of salads and a variety of cold roasted meats with various sauces is next, with lamb, pork, beef, chicken, terrine and ham to relieve the otherwise predominately pescetarian palate.

The salads make for a light and refreshing change from the abundance of protein, however as I discovered, they won’t leave you feeling any less full by the end. 

 

 

Step 4 – Hot dishes 

By this stage I was absolutely struggling. More food?! Roasted lamb, omelette, vegetables, pork….. oh dear! Send for help! I couldn’t bare the thought of any more fish, and had to pass on the beautiful baked cod with eggs (although I did try potato gratin with anchovies to be fair!). This is where the Swedish meatballs feature, which must be eaten with a side of tart lingonberries for the true Swedish experience. I’m ashamed to say I couldn’t finish my measly selection plate here as my impending abdominal compartment syndrome just wouldn’t allow it. 

Step 5 – Dessert 

  

Activate dessert stomach! Chocolate tart, macarons, fruit salad, ice cream, cakes and delectable morsels a plenty, there is ALWAYS room for dessert, even in the case of potential stomach rupture in the foreseeable future. I am proud to say I tried one of everything, my favourite being the chocolate tart (which was richer than the King of Norway) and the custard filled berry puff creation. My pancreas and I are no longer speaking to one another. 

Surviving the smorgasbord 

I can now say that after having had the true smorgasbord experience, most of the other buffets I’ve tried have paled by comparison. It is significantly more fun with an order to follow and a different traditional cuisine to try, and I would highly recommend this experience to any traveller to Stockholm! 

European Escapades

I recently returned from a much-needed overseas holiday in which I ate an ordinate amount of food and had an incredible amount of fun!

In order, the trip included: London, Norwich, Norfolk, Paris, Bordeaux, Carcassone, Andorra, Barcelona, Marseille, Lyon, Milan, Leeds, Bradford and then back to London.

Lists of the restaurants and cafes that I most enjoyed can be found in the “Tasty Travels and Foodie Finds” section of the blog. Alternatively, many of my reviews can also be seen on Trip Advisor under the name ‘oatsandcheesecake’.

A quick summary though;

  • Favourite city: Lyon, because you know what they say, if Paris is the heart of France, then Lyon is the stomach. A true gastronomical delight and a rather peaceful city, with a beautiful balance between the cosmopolitan new city and the old city with its cobblestone streets and rustic charm.
  • Favourite foodie experience: Cooking school at La Cuisine Paris, because why eat like a Parisian when you can learn to cook like one?! Two days at cooking school taught me that French cuisine isn’t anywhere near as complicated as first thought, and that it’s all about getting the balance right (and, with pastry, follow the recipe!!).
  • Favourite fine dining meal: an equal tie between Petrus by Gordon Ramsey and Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, both in London, both fine dining at their absolute best! The former involved a 7 course dinner menu of mainly French influence, while the latter involved a four course lunch (three entrees and a dessert) which involved ‘modern English’ reconstructions of  known historical dishes, with an element of food theatre thrown in. Both amazing!
  • Most interesting meal: Au Vilain Petit Canard in Lyon, more like a beautiful swan in disguise, this was a three course duck sensation in a restaurant that specialises only in duck. Amazing foie gras on spiced toast, beautiful duck breast with fruits rogue and the most rich chocolate fondant made this a meal to remember.
  • Favourite street food: La Boqueria markets in Barcelona, a true feast for the senses!
  • Favourite breakfast: Brunch & Cake in Barcelona, with the best acai bowl ever, served in a pineapple!
  • Favourite sweet treat: Petrus by Gordon Ramsey in London and their banana peanut butter mousse dessert. If this was my last meal, I would die happy!
  • Favourite alcoholic beverage: La Chateau de Tallin in Bordeaux and their stunning red wine. Even if you’re not much of a drinker like me, you can truly appreciate this beautiful drop.
  • Favourite non-alcoholic beverage: Escriba Ramblas in Barcelona for their 70% dark hot chocolate that was thick enough to eat with a spoon…..

And because not everything goes according to plan…..

  • Least favourite city: Milan, not related to the food; only for my difficulty in getting a dinner reservation at short notice
  • Least favourite foodie experience: Expo2015, it was such an interesting and insightful look into different cultures of the world, but the crowds made it a nightmare at times!
  • Least favourite meal: Marseille and the worst boullabaise I’ve ever had. Ever. Anywhere. It was practically inedible. Rule of thumb; when in Marseille, unless it has a Michelin star, DO NOT eat the boullabaise, it’s a tourist trap!

Whether you’re travelling abroad or happy at home for now, here’s to many enjoyable culinary adventures to come!

xx K